In her heyday, she pulled the Cherbourg to Paris express. But nowadays, in her semi-retirement, the giant 68-tonne green and yellow diesel engine, named “Cotentine”, has more sedate duties – rarely travelling in excess of 15 kph.
During the summer months, twice a week she pulls the “Train Touristique du Cotentin”, along the rural ten kilometre track between Carteret and Portbail on the west coast of Manche. Each Tuesday it is her mission to take up to 150 passengers from Carteret to the bustling market at Portbail.
The leisurely journey – through Barneville, St. Jean de la Rivière and St. George de la Rivière – takes up to 45 minutes, at an average speed of just 14 or 15 kilometres per hour. But the passengers, mainly visitors but often including several locals using the service for their weekly shopping expedition, are in no hurry as the train trundles through some of the region’s most picturesque countryside and along the rugged coast.
Each time the track crosses a country lane, the train stops and an attendant walks in front of the engine with a flag to halt any traffic whilst the gentle giant inches its way over the tarmac. This happens at least ten times… thus the long duration of the journey!
Meanwhile the buffet carriage offers a selection of hot and cold drinks (local cider seems to be the most popular!), crepes and filled baguettes, and a range of souvenirs of the journey.
The 10am train allows its passengers almost two hours at Portbail market before leaving for the return journey at 12.30pm. Each Thursday during the summer months, the train reverses its route – starting at 10am from Portbail to take passengers to the equally fascinating Carteret market. The outbound journey includes a detailed commentary (in French) of the route and the history of the train.
Out of season, the train offers a number of special heritage trips between the two ports, and a particularly popular event is the annual “Train du Père Noel”, which is normally planned for the Sunday before Christmas. The train is also available as a unique venue for private functions, such as birthday parties and wedding receptions.
Such is the popularity of the train that it is always advisable to book seats in advance. This can be done on each day of operation at both Carteret and Portbail stations or through the Tourist Offices at both Barneville-Carteret (tel: 02 33 04 94 54) and Portbail (tel: 02 33 04 03 07),
Return tickets for the market trains cost 7 euros for adults and 4 euros for children aged 12 and under. Themed journeys cost 8 euros and 4 euros respectively. There is usually ample free car parking near to both ends of the journey.
by: Peter Clayton www.freelance-writing-services-normandy.co.uk