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There is a definite nip of autumn in the air, and the cider apples are being gathered in. The tractors are trundling up and down the lanes and the air hangs heavy with the smell of apples. This autumn looks beautiful with the colourful leaves. It is difficult to imagine the bitter fighting that took place here over 60 years ago, and the utter devastation of the towns and villages in the Pays d’Auge region
The town houses of Mont-St-Michel with originally all constructed of timber- frames, but during the late 19th century and the Belle Epoch era most were torn down and replaced by much more comfortable dwelling places, although the original land divisions were adhered to. A beautiful stone and timbered building clinging to the town ramparts and constructed on corbels, facing the Kings Gate is known as the house of the Arches. In times gone by this lovely building once housed a part of the town’s garrison.ff
Nestled at the base of the abbey, ensconced behind impressive walls and towers, the town of Mont-Saint-Michel was born of the abbey, to which it is inextricably linked, and it is this which gives it a special and unique character.
The town grew up out of the need to house and feed the numerous pilgrims, who began arriving to partake of the spiritual healing and sanctuary of the famous abbey, and as such Inns and hostels were constructed. These early innkeepers provided meals and lodgings and merchants sold holy images, figures of St. Michael, and metal badges which the pilgrims proudly displayed announcing to all that they had made the pilgrimage to the abbey of Mount-Saint-Michel. In essence these were the early hotels and souvenir shops which today’s visitor to the Mount can enjoy with there great food and hospitality.
In her heyday, she pulled the Cherbourg to Paris express. But nowadays, in her semi-retirement, the giant 68-tonne green and yellow diesel engine, named “Cotentine”, has more sedate duties – rarely travelling in excess of 15 kph.
During the summer months, twice a week she pulls the “Train Touristique du Cotentin”, along the rural ten kilometre track between Carteret and Portbail on the west coast of Manche. Each Tuesday it is her mission to take up to 150 passengers from Carteret to the bustling market at Portbail.
The leisurely journey – through Barneville, St. Jean de la Rivière and St. George de la Rivière – takes up to 45 minutes, at an average speed of just 14 or 15 kilometres per hour. But the passengers, mainly visitors but often including several locals using the service for their weekly shopping expedition, are in no hurry as the train trundles through some of the region’s most picturesque countryside and along the rugged coast.
Each time the track crosses a country lane, the train stops and an attendant walks in front of the engine with a flag to halt any traffic whilst the gentle giant inches its way over the tarmac. This happens at least ten times… thus the long duration of the journey!
Meanwhile the buffet carriage offers a selection of hot and cold drinks (local cider seems to be the most popular!), crepes and filled baguettes, and a range of souvenirs of the journey.
The 10am train allows its passengers almost two hours at Portbail market before leaving for the return journey at 12.30pm. Each Thursday during the summer months, the train reverses its route – starting at 10am from Portbail to take passengers to the equally fascinating Carteret market. The outbound journey includes a detailed commentary (in French) of the route and the history of the train.
Out of season, the train offers a number of special heritage trips between the two ports, and a particularly popular event is the annual “Train du Père Noel”, which is normally planned for the Sunday before Christmas. The train is also available as a unique venue for private functions, such as birthday parties and wedding receptions.
Such is the popularity of the train that it is always advisable to book seats in advance. This can be done on each day of operation at both Carteret and Portbail stations or through the Tourist Offices at both Barneville-Carteret (tel: 02 33 04 94 54) and Portbail (tel: 02 33 04 03 07),
Return tickets for the market trains cost 7 euros for adults and 4 euros for children aged 12 and under. Themed journeys cost 8 euros and 4 euros respectively. There is usually ample free car parking near to both ends of the journey.
by: Peter Clayton www.freelance-writing-services-normandy.co.uk
On the 19th June, 1864, a buzz of expectancy gripped the Normandy port of Cherbourg. The many hotels, and inns were full to bursting and the private yachts, bobbed about in the harbour,all keenly awaiting the extraordinary, and inevitable event of a pitched battle between two rival ships, involved in the two sides of the American Civil war.